Used Skid Steer Inspection Checklist: 50 Things to Check

Inspect a used skid steer in a logical 50-point sequence covering paperwork, cold start, hydraulics, drive system, loader arms, cab and attachments.

MachineryList
Written by MachineryList
Updated July 13, 20263 min read
MachineryList
MachineryList
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Our editors cover buying, selling, pricing and ownership of heavy equipment — from skid steers to excavators — so you can transact with confidence.

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This guide was researched and prepared using information from our staff and a variety of editorial resources. We work hard to keep all information accurate, current, and useful.

However, equipment specifications, pricing, availability, regulations, and market conditions can change at any time, and errors or omissions may occur. MachineryList makes no warranties regarding the completeness, accuracy, or reliability of this content and assumes no liability for any actions, decisions, losses, or damages resulting from its use.

Buyers and sellers should independently verify all equipment details, pricing, financing terms, legal requirements, title status, and regulatory compliance with the appropriate parties before completing any transaction.

General information only — not legal, financial, or tax advice.

A used skid steer can look good in photos and still hide a weak hydraulic pump, overheating problem, structural repair or ownership issue. The best defense is a repeatable inspection that begins before the engine is started and ends only after the machine is hot.

Use this 50-point checklist to organize your walkaround and test drive. For an expensive machine, hire an experienced heavy-equipment technician and request fluid analysis.

This article is part of our complete guide to buying used heavy equipment.

Quick Answer

Phase Checks Main Goal
Paperwork 1–7 Verify identity, ownership and history
Walkaround 8–19 Find leaks, damage and wear
Cold start 20–27 Evaluate engine and electrical system
Hydraulics/loader 28–38 Test power, drift and structure
Drive/cab 39–47 Test travel, brakes and controls
Final review 48–50 Price repairs and document findings

1–7: Paperwork and Identity

  • 1. Match seller identity to the legal owner.
  • 2. Photograph the complete serial plate.
  • 3. Match the serial number to the bill of sale.
  • 4. Review invoice and ownership history.
  • 5. Search applicable UCC filings.
  • 6. Check theft resources.
  • 7. Compare service records with displayed hours.

8–19: Walkaround Before Starting

No. Check Watch For
8–10 Frame, ROPS and loader arms Cracks, bends and undocumented welds
11–13 Pins, bushings and quick coupler Side play, oval holes and unsafe latch wear
14–16 Tires, wheels and chaincase Cuts, loose hardware and oil leaks
17–19 Hoses, cylinders and engine bay Wet fittings, rod damage and nesting debris

20–27: Cold-Start Test

  • 20. Confirm the engine is truly cold.
  • 21. Check engine oil, coolant and hydraulic oil first.
  • 22. Turn the key on and confirm warning lamps self-test.
  • 23. Note cranking time and battery strength.
  • 24. Watch initial and continuous exhaust color.
  • 25. Listen for knocks, squeal or abnormal ticking.
  • 26. Check blow-by according to the manufacturer’s safe procedure.
  • 27. Record active fault codes.

28–38: Hydraulics, Loader and Attachments

  • 28. Cycle lift and tilt at idle.
  • 29. Repeat at operating rpm.
  • 30. Test simultaneous functions.
  • 31. Hold the arms safely to check drift.
  • 32. Listen for pump whine or cavitation.
  • 33. Inspect every cylinder under pressure.
  • 34. Test auxiliary flow in both directions.
  • 35. Check high-flow mode if equipped.
  • 36. Inspect couplers for leakage and damage.
  • 37. Test quick-attach locking indicators.
  • 38. Run an included attachment under load.

39–47: Drive System, Brakes and Cab

  • 39. Travel forward and reverse.
  • 40. Confirm straight tracking.
  • 41. Test turns in both directions.
  • 42. Listen for chaincase or final-drive noise.
  • 43. Test parking brake and interlocks.
  • 44. Check joystick or pedal response.
  • 45. Test gauges, lights and backup alarm.
  • 46. Operate heat and air conditioning.
  • 47. Inspect seat belt, door and emergency exit.

48–50: Hot Recheck and Offer

48. After the machine is fully warm, repeat hydraulic and travel tests. 49. Recheck for fresh leaks, pressure, odor and overheating. 50. Build a repair list with parts, labor, freight and downtime before making an offer.

Finding Response
Altered or missing serial plate Pause until identity is independently resolved
Major frame or ROPS repair Require expert evaluation and documentation
Weak hydraulics when hot Obtain pressure testing and repair estimate
Seller refuses a cold start Reschedule or walk away
Lien with no controlled payoff Do not pay seller directly

Next step: Use your findings with our valuation guide to set a rational offer. Browse used skid steers for sale near you to compare current asking prices.

Related guides: how many hours is a lot for a skid steer and used mini excavator inspection checklist.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long should a skid steer inspection take?

Allow at least 45 to 90 minutes for a serious field inspection, plus time for records, fluid sampling or a technician.

Should I inspect the machine cold?

Yes. A pre-warmed machine can hide starting, smoke, battery and initial-pressure problems.

Is a welded loader arm an automatic deal breaker?

Not always, but it requires documentation and expert evaluation of the repair, alignment and remaining structural risk.